→ 01 May 13 at 12 am
Griffin Whiteside on Arrowhead in Joe’s Valley, Utah
Photo by Hayden Jamieson
Griffin Whiteside on Arrowhead in Joe’s Valley, Utah
Photo by Hayden Jamieson
I’ve got a friend who’s been climbing for 5 years, and he climbs V10.
I have another friend that’s been climbing for 7 years, and he climbs 5/10c.
Do you trad 5.12? Good for you.
Onsight V10 last weekend? Great.
Finish your first 5.11 in 10 years? Fantastic.
Make the US World team? Good for fucking you.
This sport needs to stop being so fucking judgmental. I’m sick of walking into a gym and feeling eyes on me, seizing me up. I’m sick of my fucking FRIENDS, judging my other friends. In the above scenario, I was talking about the second guy to the first guy, and he SCOFFED and acted like such a dick. Needless to say, I was really offended.
I have friends, young kids who are like young siblings to me, that are constantly being ignored by coaches, and then by their own teammates, because they don’t climb 5.12, so OBVIOUSLY they’re not trying hard enough. I work with them. They try fucking hard. How fucked up is that?
Climb because you want to fucking climb. You do you, I’ll do me, and for God’s sake BE SUPPORTIVE of your fellow climbers! You all want the same thing, and that’s to get to the top of all the cool places while meeting cool people along the way.
Why do we have to be so judgmental about it?
Paul Robinson makes the FA of a 30+ move boulder problem in Hawaii
Photo via Asana Climbing
Uncut video of Carlo Traversi on Direct North, V14, Buttermilks, in Bishop, California
This is one of the boulder fields at Castle Hill Station, in Arthurs Pass, New Zealand. Photo taken by Richard Mellis, it shows some of the University of Canterburys climbing club on their way to enjoy it. This was day two of the trip:)
whenever you have a climber friend with an ego problem just kindly remind them that Alex Honnold put up a 19-pitch 5.13c/d and be on your way
Chris Sharma’s recent ascent of Fight or Flight (9b) in Spain
See raw footage of Adam Ondra’s ascent here (I wanted to give Sharma his own blogspace haha)
Ondra at the upper crux of Change, 9b+ (photo: Petr Pavlicek, via Steve Edwards)
I don’t even understand what he’s going for. I see no hold. There is no hold. What the fuck is he even going to clip off of????? THis is making me anxioUSsSs #5.15Cproblems
After 9 weeks of grueling efforts and a little in-house competition, Adam Ondra has sent La Dura Dura, 5.15c, in Santa Linya, just soon after Chris Sharma sends a 5.15b Catalunya, Spain.

***edit***
via Dead Point Magazine:
“Today, Adam Ondra climbed what he’s considering the world’s hardest sport route, La Dura Dura in Oliana, Spain. Adam’s proposed a grade of 9b+ (5.15c) for the route and also noted that he feels it’s harder than his Norway route Change (5.15c). In all, it took Ondra five trips and nine weeks of effort to climb the route.
Speaking with 8a.nu, he commented:
‘It was 2nd day on, my forearms felt sore in the morning. I was thinking of calling it a rest day… But I was less nervous and battled through the bottom and got very pumped to the 2nd crux, where I didn’t fall despite no expectations. Sticking the jug, I felt like having a heat attack but I kept it together. 9b+ it is.’”
Rock climbing in Indian Cove, Joshua Tree National Park, CA at sunset
Photo by Daniel Peckham